Podere La Strega

Look, I’ve stayed at a lot of places in Tuscany, but Podere La Strega genuinely surprised me – and that’s not easy to do anymore. The name literally means “The Witch’s Farm,” which honestly had me a bit nervous at first, but it turns out to be this beautifully restored farmhouse about 15 minutes outside Siena’s city center. You know what I mean when I say it’s far enough to feel properly countryside but close enough that you’re not completely cut off from civilization.

The drive up Strada dell’Ascarello is actually part of the experience – winding through olive groves and vineyards, past those classic Tuscan cypress trees that look almost too perfect to be real. When you pull up, there’s this immediate sense of… I don’t know, stepping back in time? The stone buildings have that weathered patina that you can’t fake, and the gardens sprawl in that effortless Italian way where everything looks wild but is clearly well-tended. Check-in was refreshingly personal – the owner actually showed us around herself, pointing out which rooms get the best morning light and where to find the best hiking trails nearby. That 9.1 rating starts making sense pretty quickly.

What really won me over was how they’ve managed to modernize without losing the soul of the place. The rooms blend rustic charm with proper comfort – think exposed beams and terracotta floors, but also excellent Wi-Fi and bathrooms that actually work well. The pool area is positioned to catch both morning and evening light, and honestly, the view over the Siena countryside from there is worth the price of admission alone. You can actually see the Duomo’s tower in the distance on clear days. The restaurant serves dinner on request, and they source most ingredients from their own gardens or nearby farms – I had this incredible ribollita soup that tasted like someone’s nonna had been perfecting the recipe for decades. Breakfast happens on the terrace when weather permits, and there’s something magical about starting your day with fresh pecorino and local honey while listening to nothing but birds and the occasional distant church bell. The only minor thing I’d mention is that if you’re planning to explore Siena extensively, you’ll want a car – there’s no real public transport out here, but that’s also part of what makes it feel so authentically rural.