Villa La Massa

You know what hits you first at Villa La Massa? It’s not the stunning Arno River views or the 16th-century villa architecture – though those are pretty spectacular. It’s actually the smell of jasmine from the gardens mixed with that particular scent of old stone that you only get in these historic Tuscan properties. I mean, this place has been around since the Renaissance, and somehow they’ve managed to keep all that character while making it feel completely luxurious.

The location is honestly perfect if you want to experience Florence without dealing with the tourist chaos. You’re in Bagno a Ripoli, which locals just call “Bagno,” and it’s maybe 15 minutes from the city center – but it feels like you’re in your own private slice of Tuscany. The hotel sits right on the riverbank, and there’s this incredible terrace where you can have your morning espresso while watching the Arno flow by. I’ve stayed here twice now, and both times I ended up spending way more time on that terrace than I planned. The Wi-Fi reaches out there too, which is clutch if you’re trying to work remotely (though honestly, good luck concentrating with that view).

What really sets this place apart is how they’ve renovated the different buildings. The main villa has these gorgeous frescoed ceilings – we’re talking hand-painted Renaissance art above your bed – while the newer sections feel more contemporary but still authentically Italian. The rooms vary quite a bit depending on which building you’re in, so definitely specify if you want river views when booking. Also, just so you know, the air conditioning can be a bit finicky in the older rooms during peak summer, but the thick stone walls actually keep things pretty cool naturally. The spa is tucked into what used to be the villa’s cellars, and they’ve done something magical with the lighting down there – it’s like being in a beautiful cave. Parking is handled by the staff (thank god, because maneuvering rental cars on these narrow Tuscan roads is stressful enough), and they’re incredibly helpful with restaurant recommendations. Skip the touristy spots in central Florence and ask them about the family-run places in the hills – that’s where you’ll find the real gems. The hotel’s restaurant, Il Verrocchio, is actually worth staying in for dinner, especially if you can snag a table on the riverside terrace during sunset. Just be prepared for a leisurely Italian pace of service, which honestly becomes part of the charm after a day or two.