Ortali Country House

You know what struck me first about Ortali Country House? It’s actually tucked away in this tiny hamlet called Quarata – I mean, you’re not going to stumble across it by accident. The address says Località Ortali, which basically means “out in the countryside where the locals keep their best-kept secrets.” And honestly, that’s exactly what this place feels like.

The drive up is through these winding Tuscan hills about 10 minutes from Arezzo proper, and you’ll pass maybe three other houses before you reach the property. It’s one of those places where you start wondering if your GPS is leading you astray, then suddenly there it is – this beautifully restored stone farmhouse that looks like it’s been sitting there for centuries (which it probably has). The owners have done something really smart here – they’ve kept all the original character but added modern touches that actually work. I’m talking about things like heated bathroom floors and really good Wi-Fi, which you honestly don’t expect to find in a place this remote.

What I love about staying here is how quiet it gets at night. Like, properly quiet – no traffic, no city noise, just the occasional sound of wind through the olive trees. The rooms have these thick stone walls that keep everything cool during the day, and the beds are the kind where you sink in and don’t move for eight hours straight. The breakfast setup is worth mentioning too – they do this spread of local cheeses and honey from their own hives, plus the woman who runs the place (I think her name is Giulia?) makes this incredible fig jam that I’m pretty sure you can’t buy anywhere else. She’s also the type who’ll sit down and tell you exactly which back roads to take to avoid the tourist crowds in Arezzo.

The whole property has maybe eight rooms total, so you’re never dealing with crowds or feeling like you’re in some massive hotel operation. There’s a pool area that catches the afternoon sun perfectly, and honestly, after a day of driving around to hill towns and wine estates, there’s nothing better than floating there with a glass of something local while the sun sets over the valley. The only minor thing I’d mention is that you definitely need a car – there’s no walking to restaurants or shops from here. But that’s sort of the point, right? You come here to disconnect and actually experience what rural Tuscany feels like when the day-trippers go home. Plus, the owners have this covered outdoor dining area where they’ll arrange dinners if you ask ahead – just you and maybe the other guests, eating under string lights with the kind of view that makes you understand why people move to Italy and never leave.