Drogheria e Locanda Franci

You know what? I wasn’t expecting much when I first pulled up to Drogheria e Locanda Franci – honestly, the name alone had me confused (drogheria means grocery store, for those wondering). But then you walk into this place on Piazzale Fortezza and it all clicks. They’ve actually converted an old pharmacy and grocery shop into this incredibly charming little hotel, and somehow it works perfectly. The location is just… well, you’re literally steps from Montalcino’s main fortress, which means you can stumble out for morning coffee and find yourself looking out over the Val d’Orcia before you’re even properly awake. The piazzale itself gets busy during the day with tour groups heading to the fortress, but by evening it’s quiet enough that you can hear the church bells from across town.

The rooms have this wonderful mix of old Tuscan bones – think exposed stone walls and wooden beams – but everything’s been updated thoughtfully. I mean, the bathroom in my room was tiny (this is a medieval building, after all), but the shower pressure was actually decent and the towels were thick. What really got me was how they’ve kept some of the original pharmacy fixtures as design elements – there are these beautiful old wooden cabinets and glass cases that just make you want to run your hands over them. The beds are comfortable enough, though if you’re a light sleeper, maybe pack earplugs since sound carries a bit through these old walls. The staff here genuinely knows their stuff too – they’ll point you toward the best wine shops on Via Mazzini or tell you which restaurants the locals actually eat at (spoiler: it’s not the ones right on the main square).

Here’s the thing about staying in Montalcino – everyone talks about the wine, and yes, the Brunello is incredible, but what makes this place special is that you’re staying in a real working hill town, not some tourist bubble. Franci gets that. They’ve got this little breakfast setup that feels more like visiting someone’s nonna than a hotel dining room, and the woman who runs the front desk will chat with you about which vineyards are worth the drive versus the ones you can easily walk to. The pricing feels fair for what you get – I’ve stayed in way more expensive places in Tuscany that had half the character. Just know that parking can be a bit of a puzzle (welcome to medieval Italy), but they’ll help you figure it out. If you’re planning to visit in September during harvest season, book way ahead – this place fills up with wine enthusiasts who return year after year, and honestly, once you stay here, you’ll understand why.