Tenuta San Giovanni Lucca – Borgo Ai Rovai

You know what? I wasn’t expecting much when I first pulled up to Tenuta San Giovanni Lucca on Via di Spazzavento Prima – honestly, the name of the street made me chuckle (it literally means “wind-sweeping street” in Italian). But this place completely surprised me. It’s this gorgeous restored borgo that feels like you’ve stumbled into someone’s private Tuscan estate, which I mean, you sort of have.

The property sits just outside Lucca’s historic center, maybe a 10-minute walk to the walls – close enough that you can easily wander into town for dinner, but far enough that you’re not dealing with tourist crowds right outside your window. What really got me was how they’ve preserved the original stone buildings while actually making them comfortable to stay in. The rooms have these incredible wooden beams and terracotta floors that creak just enough to remind you you’re in a centuries-old building, but the beds are properly modern and the bathrooms work perfectly (trust me, that’s not always a given in historic Italian properties).

The whole complex is arranged around courtyards and gardens that honestly feel like secret hideaways – there’s this one spot near the old olive press where you can sit with morning coffee and just… breathe. The staff clearly knows the area inside and out; they pointed me toward this tiny osteria on Via del Fosso that I never would’ve found otherwise, and gave me the real scoop on which churches are worth visiting versus the touristy ones. Parking’s actually included, which is huge if you’re exploring the countryside around Lucca – and believe me, you should be. The breakfast spread features local ingredients (the honey is from their own beehives, apparently), and they serve it in this sun-drenched room that overlooks the gardens.

Here’s the thing though – this isn’t one of those places where everything’s been polished to Instagram perfection. Some of the stone steps are worn smooth from centuries of use, and you might hear the occasional farm sounds from neighboring properties in the early morning. But that’s exactly what makes it feel authentic rather than like a theme park version of Tuscany. The 8.7 rating makes total sense to me – it’s genuinely special without trying too hard, and the location gives you the best of both worlds: easy access to Lucca’s amazing food scene and walls (seriously, rent bikes and ride the entire circuit), plus you’re positioned perfectly for day trips to the Garfagnana mountains or even the coast if you’re feeling ambitious. It’s the kind of place where you end up extending your stay because leaving feels like a mistake.