Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort & Spa

You know, I’ve stayed at a lot of places in Tuscany, but Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco really surprised me – and honestly, I wasn’t expecting much from a resort tucked away in the hills above Barga. The drive up Via Giovanni Pascoli is actually part of the experience though; you’re winding through these thick forests and suddenly there’s this sprawling property that feels more like a mountain retreat than your typical Tuscan hotel. The whole place sits on this massive estate where you can actually hear the Serchio River if you walk toward the back terraces, which most guests never discover because they’re too busy with the spa.

What really gets me about Il Ciocco is how it manages to feel both polished and unpretentious at the same time. I mean, sure, it’s got that Renaissance hotel quality you’d expect – the lobby’s impressive without being stuffy, rooms are spacious (thank god, because Italian hotels can be tiny), and the staff actually seems to enjoy working there. But then you’ll find yourself chatting with the concierge about the best hiking trails, or you’ll notice how they’ve kept so many of the original stone walls throughout the property. The spa is genuinely excellent, by the way – not just a few treatment rooms slapped together, but this whole wellness center built into the hillside. I spent way too much time in their thermal pools, especially the outdoor one that overlooks the valley.

The location thing is interesting because you’re sort of in the middle of nowhere, but it’s the good kind of nowhere. Barga itself is maybe ten minutes down the mountain, and it’s one of those medieval towns that tourists somehow miss – there’s this incredible jazz festival every summer that locals are obsessed with. You’re also perfectly positioned for day trips to Lucca or even Florence if you don’t mind the drive, though honestly, once you’re settled into the resort rhythm, you might not want to leave. The restaurant leans heavily into local ingredients (they source from farms right in the valley), and while dinner can get pricey, the breakfast spread is actually worth getting up for. Fair warning though – if you’re coming in July or August, book way ahead because Italian families descend on this place, and suddenly the pools are full of kids. Not necessarily a bad thing, just different energy. September’s probably the sweet spot if you want that peaceful mountain vibe with perfect weather.