Vi Suites

You know what struck me first about Vi Suites? It’s tucked away on Via Foscolo, which honestly is perfect because you’re close enough to hear the sea but far enough from the main drag that you won’t get woken up by drunk tourists stumbling back from the clubs at 3 AM. I mean, Viareggio can get pretty lively during summer season, but this spot feels like you’ve found this little pocket of calm. The building itself has that understated Italian elegance thing going on – not flashy, just… right. When I walked in, the lobby smelled faintly of that good Italian coffee and something floral, maybe jasmine? The staff actually remembered my name after day one, which doesn’t happen often at four-star places.

The suites themselves are what really won me over though. Mine had this gorgeous marble bathroom – and I’m talking proper Carrara marble, not that fake stuff – with a rainfall shower that actually had decent pressure. The bed was one of those firm Italian mattresses that somehow cradles you perfectly, and the linens felt expensive without being fussy. There’s this little kitchenette area that’s actually useful if you want to grab some fresh mozzarella from the market on Via Garibaldi and make a simple lunch. The balcony (well, mine had one – I think most do) looks out toward the Apuan Alps on a clear day, which is honestly more impressive than staring at the crowded beach anyway. They’ve got air conditioning that works quietly – crucial in July when Viareggio turns into a furnace – and the WiFi is solid throughout, even in the lobby areas.

What really sets Vi Suites apart is the location knowledge the staff has. They sent me to this tiny osteria about ten minutes away that I never would’ve found otherwise, and steered me toward the fish market early in the morning when the boats come in. It’s maybe a twelve-minute walk to the beach, but you’ll pass some gorgeous Art Nouveau buildings on the way – Viareggio’s got this whole Liberty style architecture thing that most people miss. The parking situation is actually manageable here, which is saying something in this town. During Carnevale season I’d imagine things get absolutely chaotic, but in shoulder season it feels like you’ve discovered this perfect little base camp. The 9.5 rating makes sense once you’ve stayed here – it’s not trying to be the fanciest place in town, it’s just doing everything really, really well.