Il Castelluccio Country Resort Restaurant & SPA

You know what? I wasn’t expecting much when I first pulled up that winding road to Il Castelluccio – honestly, the address just says “Via Ariano snc” which basically means “somewhere on Via Ariano” in Italian bureaucratic speak. But then you crest this hill in Barberino di Mugello, about 45 minutes north of Florence, and suddenly there’s this gorgeous stone building perched on the hillside like it’s been waiting there forever. The whole Mugello valley spreads out below you, and I mean, no photo really captures how green and rolling it all is. This isn’t your typical Tuscan tourist trap either – you’re in proper local territory here, where the only other cars you’ll see are probably heading to the nearby outlets or belong to Florentines escaping the city for the weekend.

The place itself feels like someone’s elegant country uncle decided to open his estate to guests. The rooms have that refined rustic thing going on – exposed beams, natural stone, but with seriously comfortable beds and modern bathrooms that actually work (you’d be surprised how often that’s not the case in renovated Italian properties). What really got me though was the restaurant. They’re doing this modern take on Tuscan cuisine that doesn’t feel forced or pretentious. I had this wild boar ragu that was… well, let’s just say I understood why locals drive up here for dinner. The spa is smaller than what you’d find at some massive resort, but honestly? That’s a good thing. It’s tucked into what feels like a natural grotto, and after a day of hiking around the Mugello hills – or let’s be real, after dealing with Florence crowds – those thermal pools hit different.

The staff actually knows the area, which sounds obvious but isn’t always the case. They sent me to this tiny village called Scarperia (maybe 15 minutes away) where they’ve been making knives since medieval times, and to a viewpoint near Firenzuola that’s not in any guidebook I’ve seen. Parking’s never an issue here, thank god, and the whole place has this quiet that you just don’t get closer to the cities. I mean, you’ll hear church bells from the valley and maybe some birds, but that’s about it. The only downside? Well, you definitely need a car – there’s no popping out for a quick grocery run or nightlife. But honestly, that’s kind of the point. This is where you go when you want to actually decompress and eat really well while still being close enough to hit Florence or Siena for day trips. It’s not cheap, but for what you get – and that location – it actually feels worth it.