Dimora Leone

You know what really gets me about Dimora Leone? It’s tucked away on the second floor of this gorgeous building on Via Galli Tassi, and honestly, I almost walked right past it the first time. The entrance is sort of understated – no flashy signage or anything – but once you climb those stairs, you realize that’s exactly the point. This place feels like a secret that locals have been keeping to themselves.

The thing about staying here is that you’re properly inside Lucca’s historic center, not just near it. I mean, you can literally hear the church bells from San Frediano in the morning (which is either charming or slightly annoying depending on how late you stayed up sampling the local wine). The rooms have this perfect mix of old-world character and modern comfort – think original frescoed ceilings but with air conditioning that actually works. The owner, who I’m pretty sure lives and breathes hospitality, gave me the kind of local recommendations you’d never find in a guidebook. She told me about this tiny osteria around the corner where the locals go for aperitivo, and about the best time to walk the city walls without dodging tour groups.

What really sold me on this place was the attention to detail that you only notice after you’ve been traveling for a while. The shower pressure is fantastic – seriously, after weeks of European hotels with sad, dribbling showerheads, this was a revelation. The breakfast (which they bring to a common area, not your room) features actual local pastries, not those weird croissants that taste like cardboard. And the Wi-Fi? Strong enough that I could actually video call home without freezing every ten seconds. The street itself is pretty quiet at night, though you’ll hear the occasional scooter buzzing past – but that’s just Italy being Italy. Parking is… well, it’s Lucca, so you’ll probably end up leaving your car outside the walls anyway, but they’ll give you detailed directions to the best spots. I stayed here in late September and the weather was perfect for leaving the windows open – you get these lovely evening breezes that make the whole place feel alive. With a 9.8 rating, you’d expect it to be stuffy or pretentious, but it’s actually the opposite. It feels like staying at a friend’s beautifully restored apartment, if that friend happened to have impeccable taste and a genuine passion for making sure you fall in love with their city.